While standing on the summit of Ipasha Peak, I came face-to-face with the imposing SE wall of Mt Merritt and a lower pinnacle called the Lithoid Cusp (just noticeable to the left of me). This climb was one of the more exhausting, though absolutely thrilling, that I can remember having in Glacier. We followed what's referred to in the Climber's Guide as the Yo-Yo Route, which begins from Iceberg Lake, goes up Iceberg Notch, down to Ahern Pass, then up Ahern Peak, down to a saddle on the other side, traverses the rock ridge above Ahern Glacier, and finally up the summit of Ipasha Peak-- a total elevation gain of about 6000 ft, but also a loss of about 1500 ft! The tiring part, however, was the return trip to Many Glacier. It was so late in the day that we bailed out down Cattle Queen Creek, hit the Highline Trail just as it was getting dark, and still had to hike roughly 12 miles to the Swiftcurrent Trailhead---finally getting there at 3AM. Monday, January 12, 2009
A mountainside I won't soon forget...
While standing on the summit of Ipasha Peak, I came face-to-face with the imposing SE wall of Mt Merritt and a lower pinnacle called the Lithoid Cusp (just noticeable to the left of me). This climb was one of the more exhausting, though absolutely thrilling, that I can remember having in Glacier. We followed what's referred to in the Climber's Guide as the Yo-Yo Route, which begins from Iceberg Lake, goes up Iceberg Notch, down to Ahern Pass, then up Ahern Peak, down to a saddle on the other side, traverses the rock ridge above Ahern Glacier, and finally up the summit of Ipasha Peak-- a total elevation gain of about 6000 ft, but also a loss of about 1500 ft! The tiring part, however, was the return trip to Many Glacier. It was so late in the day that we bailed out down Cattle Queen Creek, hit the Highline Trail just as it was getting dark, and still had to hike roughly 12 miles to the Swiftcurrent Trailhead---finally getting there at 3AM. 
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Do you know of anyone who's climbed the Lithoid Cusp? I can't believe it's not been done. Most times, when I ask, people respond with "Lithoid what?"
ReplyDeleteI've have confirmed statements from friends at the Park Cafe that a guy named Steve did it a few years back. Granted, he was solo, and I've heard there was some bad etiquette involved with the route he chose (he stole a route someone else was planning to attempt). Nonetheless, even the guy he stole the route from believes without a doubt that Steve successfully climbed it. Crazy climbing politics! I believe he approached from Margaret Lake area...
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